In the News
| Hungarian Rhapsody "Helen's recipes capture flavours of heritage" Monday, February 27, 2006 Page: A8 Section: Seniors Byline: Kit McDermott Column: In Touch Dateline: BRANTFORD Source: The Brantford Expositor |
| Dream Machine Publications, Paris, Ontario, Canada Helen's Hungarian Heritage Recipes Cookbook www.dreammachine.biz Copyright © 2006 Dream Rights Reserved • Updated January 23, 2010 |
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There are books and albums for preserving memories and photographs of past and present events,
as well as images of loved ones. But how do we recapture the taste and aroma of homemade
delicacies, favourite meals or celebration dinners?
Easy for some, with cookbooks and family recipes for quick reference, not a problem for most of us.
Imagine, however, that the creative chef and her secret recipes has most ingredients and methods
for preparation stored in her head, with only bits of information jotted down on scraps of paper and
the backs of envelopes, sometimes in Hungarian, or Swedish, German, or even Russian.
"That was the problem in our case," Clara Czegeny told me.
"My sisters and I were in the habit of phoning our mother, from Alberta, with requests for ingredients
of familiar recipes, and mother would always include a mild rebuke, namely, we should have paid
attention in her kitchen when we were girls at home."
When I suggested that Helen's Hungarian Heritage Cookbook must have been the direct result of
solving the problems, Clara assured me, 'yes,' but it happened in rather a round-about way.
"We, the family, wanted to give mother a surprise party for her 80th birthday, Jan. 14, 2006. Last
October I suggested that we put together a collection of her Hungarian recipes and offer them to the
invited guests.
"Originally, we had planned to have five books printed, one for each of the girls in the family," Clara
said. "Knowing that friends and relatives would bring gifts to the party, we asked instead that they
make a 'Love Gift' donation, for a fund designed to support a young missionary and his family in
Hungary on behalf of our church, Evangel Pentecostal Church, on Fairview Drive in Brantford."
Clara told me that 55 books were printed, but after extra orders began arriving from friends in
California, Ohio, Sweden and Australia, another 50 books were ordered. Her mother adds, "and the
cheques kept pouring in, so that we ended up sending $1,100, that's 137,000 florins in Hungarian
money, enough for a period of four months living expenses for the missionary family."
Although written, compiled and edited by Clara, her introduction in the book states, "Helen was the
translator, the teacher, the master chef, chief editor and consultant."
Clara acknowledges support and thanks to sisters Elizabeth Hart and Anne Lindsay and their families,
assisting with testing and tasting, and to Uncle Nick Czegeny.
Clara thanked her daughter, Evangeline, for her great contribution to the overall look of the
cookbook, with its charming floral cover and illustrations, including colourful photos, the graphics
and colour matching. Evangeline is a graphic artist and webmaster.
Published by Clara's, Dream Machine Publications, the book was printed by Hurryprint in Brantford.
Included in the contents is a brief history of Hungary and foods, a bio of chef Helen, a checklist for
successful baking, and the development of Hungarian cuisine.
It was when Clara and I spoke on the phone, setting a date for the interview, that Clara warned me not
to eat lunch because her mother planned to offer samples of some of her favourite recipes. Naturally,
I was glad to heed the warning and expected a tea party with home baking. Instead, to my surprise
and delight, Helen had set the table for dinner, a three-course meal, followed by an astonishing array
of dessert treats.
The traditional Hungarian chicken, or "hen" soup featured the delicate homemade snail noodles. The
chicken paprika was served over another variety of noodles, with extra sauce on the side. The
cucumber salad, served with an extra dollop of sour cream, to bring out the flavour of special herbs,
was delicious.
Where to begin describing the taste and texture of the cakes and pastries! The Hungarian names
rolled easily off the tongues of Helen and Clara as they identified each dessert, with me recognizing
kifli, poppy seed and walnut cake, and tiny jam-filled croissants.
I'm told that the French croissant is believed to have originated in Hungary, and then taken to France
by the chef, one of many who were imported to Hungary by Royalty and wealthy citizens, adding
famous French cuisine to the native dishes. There are also Austrian and Turkish influences to be
detected in the internationally famous cuisine.
Helen says she first learned to cook when she was six years old, wanting to surprise her mother, she
says. "Even now, I always have six or seven types of baked goods in the freezer, in case someone
comes in for coffee or tea."
She makes all her own pasta, showing me the variety, each type intended for specific recipes, with
some noodles requiring hours of patient shaping by hand.
"We were all taught to make the tiny snail noodles," Clara said, "working with a small hand-held
scraping board. And mother would say, the ones that unravel are the ones Clara made, so we'll put
those in her soup," she laughed.
"Hungarian ladies in Brantford all get together to make those noodles, which are sold at the
Hungarian Club on certain days, and are in great demand."
As for Helen, her serious training as an exceptional cook began when she was 12, taught by her great
aunt, who was the wife of a High Court Magistrate.
"We lived in a small town located 240 km east of Budapest," Helen said. "It's a beautiful area, with
great fields of poppies grown for their seeds, with guards posted to protect them from theft."
"I wanted to become a teacher, but the war started, the Russians invaded and set curfews, so I
couldn't attend teachers college in a nearby city. Our village actually changed hands between the
Russians and the Germans, nine times."
Helen Szabo met and married Alexander Czegeny, who, she says, told her to forget about teachers
college, because, "she would be teaching their children."
"In 1947, we moved to Sweden, and our daughter Elizabeth was born. We lived in Sweden for six
years."
Helen learned to speak, read and write Swedish and to this day she reads Swedish newspapers on
the Internet, as well as Hungarian and Russian ones.
"But the climate didn't suit us, with the summers too chilly to grow my tomatoes and peppers," Helen
said, explaining their move to Canada in 1953, settling first in Montreal, where Clara was born. There
were many other Hungarian ex-patriots with shops selling traditional specialties. There was a
temporary move to Brantford to work in tobacco and third daughter, Anne, was born here.
"We settled in Brantford and my husband worked as a machinist at Massey's for many years and
supervised the building of our house. He seemed to know so much about construction although he
had attended agricultural school in Sweden."
Always an ardent gardener, Helen took over all the outside work following her husband's death seven
years ago.
"I even caught her resealing the driveway," Clara smiled, "and sometimes I find her dressed like a
spaceman, spraying the fruit trees or fertilizing the garden."
Helen loves her flower garden, but all the vegetables and herbs and fruit are preserved and canned
in her well-appointed kitchen.
Nevertheless, the talented chef assures me that she always takes time to set the table and sit down
for a complete dinner every afternoon, one of the secrets to staying healthy and active.
as well as images of loved ones. But how do we recapture the taste and aroma of homemade
delicacies, favourite meals or celebration dinners?
Easy for some, with cookbooks and family recipes for quick reference, not a problem for most of us.
Imagine, however, that the creative chef and her secret recipes has most ingredients and methods
for preparation stored in her head, with only bits of information jotted down on scraps of paper and
the backs of envelopes, sometimes in Hungarian, or Swedish, German, or even Russian.
"That was the problem in our case," Clara Czegeny told me.
"My sisters and I were in the habit of phoning our mother, from Alberta, with requests for ingredients
of familiar recipes, and mother would always include a mild rebuke, namely, we should have paid
attention in her kitchen when we were girls at home."
When I suggested that Helen's Hungarian Heritage Cookbook must have been the direct result of
solving the problems, Clara assured me, 'yes,' but it happened in rather a round-about way.
"We, the family, wanted to give mother a surprise party for her 80th birthday, Jan. 14, 2006. Last
October I suggested that we put together a collection of her Hungarian recipes and offer them to the
invited guests.
"Originally, we had planned to have five books printed, one for each of the girls in the family," Clara
said. "Knowing that friends and relatives would bring gifts to the party, we asked instead that they
make a 'Love Gift' donation, for a fund designed to support a young missionary and his family in
Hungary on behalf of our church, Evangel Pentecostal Church, on Fairview Drive in Brantford."
Clara told me that 55 books were printed, but after extra orders began arriving from friends in
California, Ohio, Sweden and Australia, another 50 books were ordered. Her mother adds, "and the
cheques kept pouring in, so that we ended up sending $1,100, that's 137,000 florins in Hungarian
money, enough for a period of four months living expenses for the missionary family."
Although written, compiled and edited by Clara, her introduction in the book states, "Helen was the
translator, the teacher, the master chef, chief editor and consultant."
Clara acknowledges support and thanks to sisters Elizabeth Hart and Anne Lindsay and their families,
assisting with testing and tasting, and to Uncle Nick Czegeny.
Clara thanked her daughter, Evangeline, for her great contribution to the overall look of the
cookbook, with its charming floral cover and illustrations, including colourful photos, the graphics
and colour matching. Evangeline is a graphic artist and webmaster.
Published by Clara's, Dream Machine Publications, the book was printed by Hurryprint in Brantford.
Included in the contents is a brief history of Hungary and foods, a bio of chef Helen, a checklist for
successful baking, and the development of Hungarian cuisine.
It was when Clara and I spoke on the phone, setting a date for the interview, that Clara warned me not
to eat lunch because her mother planned to offer samples of some of her favourite recipes. Naturally,
I was glad to heed the warning and expected a tea party with home baking. Instead, to my surprise
and delight, Helen had set the table for dinner, a three-course meal, followed by an astonishing array
of dessert treats.
The traditional Hungarian chicken, or "hen" soup featured the delicate homemade snail noodles. The
chicken paprika was served over another variety of noodles, with extra sauce on the side. The
cucumber salad, served with an extra dollop of sour cream, to bring out the flavour of special herbs,
was delicious.
Where to begin describing the taste and texture of the cakes and pastries! The Hungarian names
rolled easily off the tongues of Helen and Clara as they identified each dessert, with me recognizing
kifli, poppy seed and walnut cake, and tiny jam-filled croissants.
I'm told that the French croissant is believed to have originated in Hungary, and then taken to France
by the chef, one of many who were imported to Hungary by Royalty and wealthy citizens, adding
famous French cuisine to the native dishes. There are also Austrian and Turkish influences to be
detected in the internationally famous cuisine.
Helen says she first learned to cook when she was six years old, wanting to surprise her mother, she
says. "Even now, I always have six or seven types of baked goods in the freezer, in case someone
comes in for coffee or tea."
She makes all her own pasta, showing me the variety, each type intended for specific recipes, with
some noodles requiring hours of patient shaping by hand.
"We were all taught to make the tiny snail noodles," Clara said, "working with a small hand-held
scraping board. And mother would say, the ones that unravel are the ones Clara made, so we'll put
those in her soup," she laughed.
"Hungarian ladies in Brantford all get together to make those noodles, which are sold at the
Hungarian Club on certain days, and are in great demand."
As for Helen, her serious training as an exceptional cook began when she was 12, taught by her great
aunt, who was the wife of a High Court Magistrate.
"We lived in a small town located 240 km east of Budapest," Helen said. "It's a beautiful area, with
great fields of poppies grown for their seeds, with guards posted to protect them from theft."
"I wanted to become a teacher, but the war started, the Russians invaded and set curfews, so I
couldn't attend teachers college in a nearby city. Our village actually changed hands between the
Russians and the Germans, nine times."
Helen Szabo met and married Alexander Czegeny, who, she says, told her to forget about teachers
college, because, "she would be teaching their children."
"In 1947, we moved to Sweden, and our daughter Elizabeth was born. We lived in Sweden for six
years."
Helen learned to speak, read and write Swedish and to this day she reads Swedish newspapers on
the Internet, as well as Hungarian and Russian ones.
"But the climate didn't suit us, with the summers too chilly to grow my tomatoes and peppers," Helen
said, explaining their move to Canada in 1953, settling first in Montreal, where Clara was born. There
were many other Hungarian ex-patriots with shops selling traditional specialties. There was a
temporary move to Brantford to work in tobacco and third daughter, Anne, was born here.
"We settled in Brantford and my husband worked as a machinist at Massey's for many years and
supervised the building of our house. He seemed to know so much about construction although he
had attended agricultural school in Sweden."
Always an ardent gardener, Helen took over all the outside work following her husband's death seven
years ago.
"I even caught her resealing the driveway," Clara smiled, "and sometimes I find her dressed like a
spaceman, spraying the fruit trees or fertilizing the garden."
Helen loves her flower garden, but all the vegetables and herbs and fruit are preserved and canned
in her well-appointed kitchen.
Nevertheless, the talented chef assures me that she always takes time to set the table and sit down
for a complete dinner every afternoon, one of the secrets to staying healthy and active.
| ART OF EATING MAGAZINE - by Edward Behr- has featured our Cookbook in their Popular Food Magazine in BOOKS! |
no. 82 “Paris Bistros” 48 pp — to be mailed about
November 10.
* New Ways to Be a Restaurant in Paris: The
Casualization of Dining Bénédict Beaugé and Edward
Behr
* New Paris Recipes (Iñaki Aizpitarte, Guillaume Delage,
Nicolas Scheidt)
* Cucina Povera: Street Food in Naples John Irving
* The Mechanics of Terroir Derrick Schneider
* Paximadia: Cretan Twice-Baked Bread Diana Farr Louis
* Crunch: Chapulines (Crickets, Grasshoppers, and
Locusts), a Mexican Delicacy Corinna Sargood
* Alici di Menaica: Pisciotta’s Big Little Fish Winnie Yang
* Why This Bottle, Really?
Patrik St. Vincent on St. Julien from Domaine du
Jaugaret
* Notes and Resources
Notes and Resources Curing the “nail polish” in
vinegar, further thoughts
on Chablis
* Restaurants
Burgundy: Bénédict Beaugé on Le Grand Couvert
Tuscany: Beth Elon on Antico Colle
* Books
Petra Tanos on Clara Margaret
Czégény’s Helen’s Hungarian Heritage
Recipes
Olivia Wu on Teresa M. Chen’s A Tradition of Soup:
Flavors from China’s Pearl River Delta
November 10.
* New Ways to Be a Restaurant in Paris: The
Casualization of Dining Bénédict Beaugé and Edward
Behr
* New Paris Recipes (Iñaki Aizpitarte, Guillaume Delage,
Nicolas Scheidt)
* Cucina Povera: Street Food in Naples John Irving
* The Mechanics of Terroir Derrick Schneider
* Paximadia: Cretan Twice-Baked Bread Diana Farr Louis
* Crunch: Chapulines (Crickets, Grasshoppers, and
Locusts), a Mexican Delicacy Corinna Sargood
* Alici di Menaica: Pisciotta’s Big Little Fish Winnie Yang
* Why This Bottle, Really?
Patrik St. Vincent on St. Julien from Domaine du
Jaugaret
* Notes and Resources
Notes and Resources Curing the “nail polish” in
vinegar, further thoughts
on Chablis
* Restaurants
Burgundy: Bénédict Beaugé on Le Grand Couvert
Tuscany: Beth Elon on Antico Colle
* Books
Petra Tanos on Clara Margaret
Czégény’s Helen’s Hungarian Heritage
Recipes
Olivia Wu on Teresa M. Chen’s A Tradition of Soup:
Flavors from China’s Pearl River Delta
| To read the entire article and see more pictures, click here... |
| To download pdf file, click on chef |
| Brant News - November 21, 2009 |